This skirt seriously took me about an hour to make once I determined how to make my pattern. Hopefully with this tutorial, it should take you about an hour to make the entire thing! Pair it with your favorite tops and belt to create a faux maternity dress!
Maternity High-Low Circle Skirt Tutorial
(Want to download the printable PDF Tutorial? Get it here!
NOTE: It should be free to download - if it's not, email me and I will send you a copy!)
Supplies Needed:
·
Poster board,
construction paper or pattern paper that
you can make large enough by taping together to meet your measurement needs
·
Tape
·
Scissors
·
Pencil
·
Marker
·
Scratch Paper
·
1.5 to 2 yds Fabric
– 58-60” wide
o 1.5 yds suitable for knits – you will have a seam down
the back of your skirt as well as on the sides
o 2 yds suitable for knits and all other fabrics – you will
likely NOT have a seam down the back of your skirt – only on the sides
·
Matching Thread
·
1 Inch Elastic – 1
Yard (See Note Below)
o Measure your underbust measurement first – this will
determine your elastic needs.
·
2 Safety Pins
Instructions:
1.
Determine the
following measurements before beginning:
a. Underbust/Upperbelly
measurement: Taken directly under
your bust line, where the skirt will ultimately sit.
b. Front Length
measurement (fl): From the center of
your “underbust/upperbelly” measurement, measure downward, over your belly,
where you would like the highest point of your skirt.
c. Back Length
measurement (bl): You may ask a
friend to take this measurement for you or you could look in a mirror to
determine how many inches you would like the back to swoop down from the front.
2.
To determine your
pattern “waist” size (w), you will
want to add approximately 6 inches to your underbust/upperbelly measurement.
Once you have this measurement, use the chart below to determine your radius (r) of your “waist” circle on your
pattern:
|
Underbust/Upperbelly
Measurement
|
“Waist” Size (w)
|
Radius (r)
|
|
24
|
30
|
9.5
|
|
26
|
32
|
10
|
|
28
|
34
|
10.75
|
|
30
|
36
|
11.5
|
|
32
|
38
|
12
|
|
34
|
40
|
12.75
|
|
36
|
42
|
13.25
|
|
38
|
44
|
14
|
|
40
|
46
|
14.5
|
3.
Add a seam
allowance for the elastic waist casing to your (fl) meausurement of 1.5”, as well as a seam allowance for a hem of .5”
= 2” total. This will be your final (fl)
measurement.
4.
Add a seam
allowance for the elastic waist casing to your (bl) meausurement of 1.5”, as well as a seam allowance for a hem of .5”
= 2” total. This will be your final (bl)
measurement.
5.
On a small piece
of scratch paper, draw out a mini-version of your pattern using the (r), (w),
(fl) and (bl) measurements so that you can determine how much pattern paper you
will need to craft your real pattern. It
should look somewhat like this:
6.
Create and
Transfer your measurements from your scrap paper pattern to your actual pattern
paper.
7.
You will notice
that the yellow line, your swoop of the hemline is subjective – this is up to
you! It will automatically have the high low hem. Here are variations to
consider:
Even
swoop front to back
Dramatic
swoop front to back
8.
I highly recommend
tracing your pieces with a large marker so that you can determine where they
begin and end. Cut the pattern pieces out!
9.
To determine
where you place your side seam, after cutting out the large piece, simply fold
the waist (w) in half down to the hemline of the skirt. Reopen the skirt, draw
and additional line for the side seam and cut out.
10. Now you are ready to cut! If using knit fabric, you
will not have to worry about the bias. However, if you are not using a knit,
ensure that you cut your fabric on the bias (diagonal against the grain of the
fabric) or it will not lay correctly. You will have 2 pieces.
NOTE: If you chose to only purchase 1.5 yards of fabric, you may need to cut
the back into two pieces instead of creating one piece by cutting on the fold. Simply
cut a left and a right piece.
Let’s
Sew!!
11. ONLY IF YOU HAVE 3 PIECES INSTEAD OF 2. IF YOU HAVE A
FRONT AND A BACK, SKIP TO #12. Sew the back seam together by joining the two
back centers, right sides together and seaming.
12. Place your back skirt piece on a flat surface so that
the right side of the fabric is visible to you. Take the front skirt piece,
right side down and place on top of the back skirt piece matching the side
seams.
13. Pin seams together and sew each side. You may use a
serger or a straight stitch on your sewing machine.
If using a knit and not sewing on a
serger, use a zig zag seam, double needle or your preferred knit sewing method.
14. If using a
non-knit fabric: Fold “waist band” (wrong
sides meet) down ¼”, press and fold an additional 1 ¼” to create casing for
elastic. Begin sewing on the outside, side seam of your fabric at approximately
1 1/8” to ensure you catch the casing and create a nice pocket for the elastic.
Stop approximately 2” before where you began to allow enough room to insert
elastic properly.
If using a knit fabric: You may choose to serge the edge of the knit, taking
off approximately ¼” as you sew. This will bind the edge. However, as most knit
does not ravel, you can choose to skip this. Simply fold over the “waist band”(wrong
sides meet) down 1 ½”, press and begin sewing on the outside, side seam of your
fabric at approximately 1 1/8” to ensure you catch the casing and create a nice
pocket for the elastic. Stop approximately 2” before where you began to allow
enough room to insert elastic properly.
15. Take your “underbust/upperbelly” measurement and your
elastic. This will be the guide for cutting your elastic to size. I like to
subtract approximately 3” inches from the measurement when cutting my elastic
to ensure that the skirt fits snugly on my body – you make the call. Cut your
elastic to your altered measurement.
16. Insert your elastic using the “safety pin method.”
Secure one end of the elastic to the band of the skirt from the outside. On the
other end, secure the safety pin so that you can use it for threading of the
elastic through the casing. Gently feed this end into your casing and using the
safety pin to guide it through to meet the other end that you have pinned.
17. With both elastic ends together, secure elastic by
sewing with a straight stitch approximately ½” from both ends, forward and
backward several times. Secure further by separating the elastic ends and zig
zag stitching each end to the elastic. Elastic should neatly tuck inside entire
casing and lay flat.
18. From the outside of the skirt (right side of fabric),
close up the 2” gap that you left in the casing for the elastic, securing the
waistband into the skirt. (DO NOT SEW THE ELASTIC AT THIS POINT.)
Now all that is left is to hem
the skirt and you are done! I suggest trying it on at this point in front of a
mirror to ensure that you are happy with the length of the skirt. Make
alterations if needed.
Hemming Variations/Options:
1.
¼” Roll Hem – This is easiest with a non-knit
fabric – it is incredibly small to allow for full movement in the skirt. Begin
by carefully folding ¼” from the bottom of the skirt, wrong sides together.
Press. Fold again ¼” to secure the fabric inside the seam. Press. From the
outside, sew slightly less than ¼” from the bottom of the skirt all the way
around to finish your hem.
2.
Frayed Hem – If you are sewing a linen and would
like a “frayed” look, simply even the hem line (if for some reason it may not
be straight) and with a straight stitch, stitch on the outside of the skirt at
approximately ½” from the edge. This will ensure your fabric does not fray
farther than the ½”. Simply wash and the fraying should take care of itself!
3.
Serged Rolled Edge Hem – Regardless of the type
of fabric you are using, you can do a rolled edge hem on the garment (that’s
what I did). Simply adjust your serger to the correct setting, choose a thread
you are comfortable viewing from the right side of your garment and sew your
rolled edge hem ½” from the bottom of the skirt all the way around. (NOTE: This is the type of hem that I did on
my skirt – See Pictures)
4.
Knit “No Hem” – Lots patience? Sometimes that
happens when you are pregnant! If so and you have used a knit, simply even up
the hem line and leave it!
Disclaimer: Please do not copy this pattern without permission of the creator and author. Please do not sell as your own item without prior consent and crediting Pintuck Pixie as your source for the pattern. Email all questions regarding the pattern and policies to tiffany@pintuckpixie.com.
Enjoy your skirt!
Tiffany